Only One Trap


 
 

Asking a trapper what is the only trap to have is like asking a veteran hunter what is the only gun to take or a golf pro what is the only club to use. I thought long and hard on the subject before coming to the conclusion that for beginners, the conibear trap is the best one to use.

The conibear was developed by Canadian fur trapper, Frank Conibear. He wanted a trap that would kill the animal quickly so that he could run more traps with only checking each set every 2 or 3 days. (With a regular leghold trap you should check it every day to humanely kill the captured animal.) There are currently six different sizes but for this article we will stick with the three basic sizes to avoid confusion.

The first is a #110 conibear; this trap is 4 1/2 by 4 1/2" with a single spring. This trap can be used for muskrat, mink, rabbits, squirrels and some of the bigger weasels. This trap is relatively inexpensive, ranging from $50 a dozen new to $30 a dozen used.

Next is a #220 conibear; this trap is 7 by 7" with double springs and requires a setting tool to compress the springs. It is popular among raccoon trappers.

Care must be used with this trap because if a dog or cat sticks its head inside, it will die as quickly as a raccoon. Some states have regulated this trap. If set on land, they have to be in dog-proof boxes or at least four feet off the ground. Besides racoons, this trap has been used to catch otters, muskrats, mink, squirrels, rabbits, and groundhogs (woodchucks). It runs about $99 a dozen new and around $75 used. Four #220s will keep you in coons for a long time.

The third trap is a #330 conibear; this trap is 10 x 10" square with double springs. This is the most powerful trap and is NOT for the faint of heart! The same setting tool that can be used for the #220 will work for the #330. THE SAME CARE MUST BE USED WITH THIS TRAP BECAUSE NO DOG OR CAT WILL LIVE THROUGH AN ENCOUNTER WITH THIS TRAP! However, it's a wonderful beaver trap. I have trapped hundreds of beaver with it. The trap was designed for beaver but can also be used for otters, raccoons, and snapping turtles. It runs around $200 a dozen new and $150 a dozen used. I've had some of these for over 10 years and they're still catching beaver every year.

So now you're saying to yourself, "I thought this article was suppose to be about ONE trap, not THREE!" Well, just like the one perfect gun, it all depends on where you live in the country. What fur-bearing game is the most numerous in your area? A great survival set-up would be six #110s for the smaller animals, four #220s for medium-size animals, and two #330s for beaver-size animals. This batch of only twelve traps should keep you in meat and fur just about anywhere in America.

If I HAD to choose, the one trap I personally would keep is the #330 because of the numerous beaver in my area. For other parts of the country, I would take the #220 because of the many raccoons, groundhogs, opossums, and muskrats. With the #110 traps being so inexpensive, every trapper should have at least a couple at their camp.

What are the usual road kill animals in your area? This is a good reliable indicator of the animal population in ANY given area. But use your head. If you see two beaver lodges and four dams, then there are probably 4-12 beaver living there; but after you trap them all out, then what's left there to trap? So be a sensible steward and trap only what game is the most numerous in your area.
 

Preparing New Traps

If you buy new traps, don't go straight out to the woods and set them up for game; you first must prepare the traps. If you use new traps, which are very bright and shiny, you will have limited success because the animals will be wary of such unnatural-looking objects in their territory. A quick and easy way to prepare the traps is to boil them in water for about five minutes to remove the factory grease, then stick them outside under some damp leaves or mowed grass. Leave the traps there for about a week or so until a light coating of rust appears. Then use a wire brush to lightly take off the rust, just enough to get off the bigger spots. (A lot of beginners can't understand this rusting part because it goes against the grain of metal protection!)
The reason you let the traps rust is to prepare the metal for accepting dye, paint, or "quick dip". There is a quick way to preserve the traps after the rusting: you can spraypaint the trap flat black or brown. The reason for the rust coating is after catching a few animals, the paint or dye on the trap can wear or chip off. You don't want a shiny bit of metal scaring game away from the trap. With the rust color being more natural-looking (deceiving) to game, the trap will keep on catching game. Make sure that after painting them, you hang the traps in a tree for a couple of weeks to get rid of the paint smell which will also frighten game.

Now good luck and take care on the trapline!

--"Buckshot" from Home-stead.org. Used with permission. E-mail: beh@up.net
 


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