First of all, we will discuss what is the minimum clothing that will pass at a rendezvous. Now don’t get the wrong idea. Minimum does not mean wearing a dishtowel for a loin cloth. The rules at a large NMLRA rendezvous are that your costume is pre-1840. Now most Dog Soldiers will pass you in if you are making a serious effort at being authentic. There are rendezvous that will require authenticity to be backed up with research but you aren’t ready for those yet, so we will stick with the basics.
First off, you got to know where to get the right clothing because you sure aren’t going to find it at Wally World.
The two magazines I highly recommend are MuzzleBlasts and Muzzleloader.
Men’s Wear:
Broadfall pants: these are pants without zippers or a button fly like 501 jeans. We are looking for pants that have a big flap in the front held up with buttons.
Drop sleeve rivermans shirt: remember the purty shirts that the pirates always get to wear? Well leave off the lace and ribbons and you are there.
Boots: low walking heel, round toe. No fancy stitching, no cowboy boots. Wellingtons are OK, so are Red Wing Dingos. If you can find boots with leather soles you are better off, at least don’t wear something with a tread. Shoes: Go to the Army Navy store and try to find a pair of low quarters. Pop out the steel eyelets and you are in style. The shoes have leather soles, round toes and are well made.
Hat: Yes, you do need one. No one was ever seen without a hat. A big floppy black felt hat is good. Low round crown. NO COWBOY HATS please.
Scarf: actually they are called cravats but you didn’t know that until now. Find a square of white muslin at the fabric store about 36 inches on a side. fold it into a ribbon wrap it around your neck and tie it in front (very stylish).
Glasses: if you got to wear them and I know I sure do, this is the difficult part. If you are just starting out, wear what you have. Just don’t wear shades no matter what. Start haunting antique stores and try to find a usable pair of antique glasses. Look for the type where the lenses are held in with screws instead of being folded into the frames. Modern optometrists can put your prescription in those tiny frames. Also look for modern manufacturers of glasses that advertise in the magazines above.
In addition to
broadfall trousers and a drop sleeve shirt, a waistcoat was worn by all
trades and occupations. There is even a mention of a butcher wearing one
while plying his trade. Depending on the period, a sleeved waistcoat or
sleeveless is considered the minimum outer wear during the periods previously
mentioned. It was considered impolite and rude to go outdoors in bare shirt
sleeves.
Clothing should be made of natural materials such as linen or wool. for a newcomer, cotton fabric such as onnaburg which has a homespun look would be appropriate. Cotton in the periods under discussion would have been very expensive due to the limited cotton fabric production in this country. In the earlier range of our period, cotton fabric was imported from England or Germany and made of cotton grown in Egypt, hence more expensive to purchase by the non-wealthy folks. Colors should be muted and solids are safest. Printed fabric was block printed which required a larger pattern. Pick a busy one, the bolder the better.
AVOID SYNTHETICS. They’re hotter to wear than natural fibers which breathe. Synthetics can flash-melt when a spark from a fire or flintlock hits ‘em, causing severe damage to the wearer. Natural fibers will either smolder if a flame gets to them or the spark will go out before any damage can occur.
Wool was used for more reasons than warmth. there are many checks available. Look for the one inch square checks in red/black, blue/black, red/white, green/black.
If you are tempted by a calico with a rose on it, hold off. The ‘Cabbage Rose’ of today was not hybridized until the 1850s, so any pattern with a cabbage rose is out of our period.
Roller printing was invented very early. Patterns with simple flowers repeating in vertical stripes are okay. Stripes are okay. Color coordination and sizing of clothes is a 20th century affectation. In our period, colors were mixed and matched with no thought of the color combinations. As a matter of fact the gaudier the colors the better. One museum authentic vest had a brocade back, red front and cotton velvet lapels. Mixed with a green/black checked shirt and blue/black striped pants, a red cravat and a top hat it makes for a good outfit.
Andrew Buchner & Stephen Ratterman